Smokey Bay & across the Nullarbor home – caravaning around Australia

Mr C has grown to appreciate free camping, the most he will do is two days in a row – me I could go longer and be happy with a top and tail however, Mr C does not engage in that activity nor is he willing to try so two days it is for us.

Crossing the Nullarbor – homeward bound.

After leaving Adeliade we bought a new car battery, we did not want to risk getting a flat battery again crossing the Nullarbor. We stopped at Port Wakefield, up the A1 to Lake Bumbunga It was time to look for a free camp for the night when we came to Bumbunga Lake a Salt Lake and to my surprise there was the Lock-Eel, I thought it was Nessie (the Lock ness monster here in SA), how clever. There was a butcher shop, an unusual place to have a butcher shop in the middle of nowhere – I popped in to buy a couple of drinks and ask about free camping – to my surprise the butcher said “yes, just next to park is a free camping spot” – it was great, clean, toilets and free WiFi, we were set for the night.

Next morning Mr C and I had a walk around the lake and then set off for Kimba. We drove through Iron Knob, again a small mining town not much to see. Following the A1 to Port Pirie for a look around and to change one of the caravan tyres. The tyre was changed without any issues, we then had fish and chips for lunch overlooking the Port.

Next town was Port Germain it was smaller than Port Pirie and we didn’t stop just drove through, the same with Port Augusta. The first time round we stayed 5 nights in Port Augusta and that’s enough for a lifetime, not much to see or do, won’t be going back.

Kimba is a great town, best free camping area and with a shower – it’s in the showgrounds and near the Men’s Shed. I was so excited there was a shower, I went straight away to have one. I was in getting undressed when I read the sign that said $1.00 for 2mins hot water – well it was a cold shower for me, I didn’t take my purse into the shower, never mind it was a hot day and a cold shower was good enough for me – I did pass on the information to Mr C that he required a $1 if he wanted hot water and he did.

We decided we would have breakfast at the Big Pink Galah. The Halfway across Australia gift shop – apparently it is halfway as the crow flies between west and east. It is a must to see the Eward John Eyre statues of the early pioneers, the 360-degree view is spectacular.

Next stop was Wudinna – Mount Wudinna is the second largest monolith after Uluru, however Mr C was not in the mood to unhitch the caravan and go and have a look at another big rock – I didn’t have the energy to argue with him about it and settled for a drive by.

We had a toilet stop and filled up in a weird little place called Kyancutta it’s a 24hr fuel pay station, the only good thing about the place was it had a beautiful Mulberry Tree, which I picked a couple of ripe mulberries. Then on our way to Smokey Bay via Streaky Bay.

As we drove through Streaky Bay, I remembered what a great time we spent there – I was pleased we chose somewhere different this time. We did stop to stock up on some food and water, just as well we did, because Smokey Bay was much smaller and only had one general store.

Upon arriving at Smokey Bay, the bay looked pristine blue, calm and inviting. I was driving and backed the caravan in without any bother, I did have someone directing me, the park manager all went smoothly. I am so used to driving the caravan now and getting better with reversing every time I do it – I hate it when the guys stand and watch you parking, it is off putting. Our plan for Smokey Bay was to relax before our drive home across the Nullarbor and that’s what we did. Mr C also wanted a supply of oysters for the road…… and he was in luck, he bought the biggest oysters, they were delish.

Ceduna

We put Smokey Bay in our rear vision mirror the next morning as we headed to Ceduna. Quick lunch at the bakery (cold pie), a wander around town and a walk on the jetty. Not much else to do so we resumed our journey towards Penong.

Ceduna Jetty

Crossing the Nullarbor again – bought back memories of only 6 months before, there seemed to be less flowers and now there were no Whales to see in the Bight. We took a detour to Fowlers Bay between Ceduna and the Nullabour it’s a tiny town for fisherman and whale watchers – however migration season is over. It was a beautiful sunny day, 80% of the road was sealed, the last 10 kms was a graded road – it was a fabulous bay – right next to Fowlers Bay was Scott’s Bay what a coincidence.

After Fowlers Bay it was head down and driving towards home. Once we made the decision to head home all we wanted to do was get home, funny how that happens.

I wanted us to stop overnight on the Australian Bight, however Mr C said it was too open and it would be too windy, and we stayed off road in a more sheltered stop – disappointing for me.

This time crossing the Nullarbor we encountered strong winds and a rainstorm – everyone commented on how unusual it was – I guess it’s all an experience. Due to the strong winds, we had a window of the caravan blow open whilst we were driving – it broke, between us we did a quick repair, Mr C with his drill and me with the duct tape and continued on our way. We saw no wildlife this time round, and very few birds and only a couple of roadkill.

It was strange crossing the border and watching the time change on the car radio, we gained back our two hours – the time difference was always an issue for us- three hours is a big difference, I can cope with two, but three is so difficult when trying to contact family and grandchildren. It was a great feeling being back in WA.

Merredin – the drive to Merredin was interesting, we saw a beautiful big Salt Lake and some beautiful countryside. There were some great old buildings, the town seemed very quiet and we arrived during a storm with lots of lightening, so it was interesting setting up. We found an IGA that was open so we could buy some food for dinner – we could have continued to Quarading but decided to stop and have some time out and set off early in the morning.

Quairading is another wheatbelt town where Mr C’s brother lives. I had taken a leg of lamb to cook a roast dinner, little did I know that the temperature would be in the 40’s, but that did not stop me cooking a lamb roast with Yorkshire puddings – it was great – a fun time was had by all. Next day we left early for home. I couldn’t wait……..I wanted to drive as Mr C had driven us out on the trip, I wanted to drive us home.

Home – it was great driving down our street, I was driving us home – it was just so exciting, I parked the caravan perfectly – it was just so good to be home.

We love being home, still have some catching up to do with family and friends. Love my bed and ensuite, not having to shower with my thongs on….. we have so much room to move. There are also some repairs to the house and the garden needs our tender loving care – the doggies were well looked after and love us being home. Our family Xmas will be on the 3 February, can’t wait.

Final blog about our trip is still to come. It will be a summary of the best and not so best of our 26,500 kilometres. Together with my favourite photos. Thanks everyone who followed along we’ve had the best time ever.

Murray Bridge SA – Caravanning around Australia

Our drive from Coonawarra to Murray Bridge was relatively uneventful apart from a detour that took us miles out of our way. There was mixture of miles and miles of vineyards, paddocks of purple flowers, cattle and sheep farming and rolling green hills. We went along the Riddock Hwy through Naracorte and stopped at a little bakery in the town of Keith for lunch – what an unusual name for a town ‘Keith’. Again, Google helped with the answer – In 1889 the town was officially proclaimed and named after Lord Kintore, the Governor of South Australia who was also known as Lord Keith because his ancestral home in Aberdeenshire, Scotland was called Keith Hall+- and that’s why the town’s name is Keith.

Not long after leaving Keith, we followed a detour sign as the Riddock Hwy was closed. It was so annoying when you follow a detour, and it does not connect back up to the highway you were on before. We ended up on the coast road, not a bad thing but not what we had planned. We passed through Meningie, Ashville, Lake Albert, Lake Alexandrina, Tailem Bend and finally Murray Bridge.

We arrived at Murray Bridge Caravan Park late afternoon, we had a good view of the Murry River which was great. I had enough time for me to get a couple of loads of washing done, including our sheets – I just love clean sheets on the bed. Luckily for us the sun was out and there was a little breeze so the washing dried quickly. I cooked a nice dinner and we planned the next three days and our way home – Mr C has not been in a game playing mood since we left Carwoola, he’s being a real party pooper, so I have been busy with some crocheting.

The rain seemed to be following us it rained the next day – we did a bit of shopping and went to visit the famous Bunyip of the Murray Bridge, yes it does exist – it could be made a little scarier. Mr C was delighted when he saw how many other men had been dragged to see this attraction.

The later afternoon we were meeting up with friends for a BBQ dinner so we left earlier in the afternoon so we could go via Port Elliot and had a look at the town – it was only about 65mins away. However, the rain was quite heavy and we wondered had we made the right choice. At the end of the day if the weather was still bad after dinner we could always stay the night.

Port Elliot is a delightful town, lots of history, beautiful, interesting shops and buzzing with people. The Bowling green is in a prime location right by the sea – beautiful spot to play Bowls. If we were to come back we would spend more time exploring.

Middleton was next, only 10 mins out of Port Elliot meeting up with Marijke & Nev for dinner – it was lovely to have some female companionship again, we gossiped in a good way, shared midwifery stories and solved the world problems all in one evening – and dinner was delish. The rain had cleared so we drove back to Murray Bridge and our caravan.

Next morning was meant to be a lie in for Mr C, as he did not sleep well the night before however, my friend Alison messaged to say they were in Mannum could we meet for morning coffee – after looking at the map, it was only 30mins away, so I agreed. I drove so Mr C could nap in the car – alas he did not. Mannum was also a great little town, bustling with people and interesting shops. We had breakfast at a great coffee shop and Paul (Alisons) husband was giving us plenty of places to go and visit. Our afternoon was taken up by meeting another midwifery friend and Paul gave us a list of places to see on the way. We agreed that Mannum would be another great place to camp for a week.

Next stop was Hahndorff – yes sound German and it is. I noted to Mr C as I was driving, we had passed many Lutheran Churches and Nev the evening before told us that SA was settled by free settlers not convicts and that there is a strong German influence and that is still evident today.

Hahndorff was so busy, people everywhere you could hardly move, parking was at a premium. Luckily, we found a spot and went looking for The Plough – and Irish Cafe seemingly in the middle of Germany. Mr C had a Guinness, I had a Guinness beef pie and bought some fresh soda bread to take with us for breakfast. I was so excited to see some of the authentic German shops, candles, Christmas decorations, German food – it really was like being in a German Town – well worth a visit and again, we would stay longer to explore the area.

Next stop was Beerenberg – for ice cream and meeting another midwifery friend. Before we knew it, it was closing time, we had talked the afternoon away – and yes that meant Mr C too.

It was a big day, in fact it’s been a big three days, catching up with long-time friends as you are travelling though their country (SA). There was still one more person we had to meet up with and we would do that on our way out of Adelaide the next morning.

Meeting up with Chris and Ted, was delightful. I have always admired Chris and still do; she is a phenomenal woman. It was nice to spend some time with her at home chatting about life and where too now that she is retired and I’m semi-retired. It was the first time I met Ted; he was a charming man with a very dry sense of humour. I could see similarities in our relationships – which did make me smile. They gave us excellent directions how to get out of Adeliade without going through the city centre. Upon leaving we had another flat battery and Ted came to the rescue by jump starting our car. Our first stop when we left was to buy a new battery – which has been done. I do hope that Chris and Ted come and visit us in Perth.

The best part of this Adelaide trip was reconnecting with friends – just perfect and discovering new places to come back to visit.

The drive out of Adelaide was good – no hassles our first stop for the night was a free camp in Lochiel opposite the Salt Lake and the Lock-Eel.

Well that’s it for this blog – the rest of the trip will follow shortly – upon reading this blog, I thought it might sound boring because its more about meeting up with friends along the way – but isn’t that so great that you can travel anywhere in Australia and catch up with friends. We have seen and met so many people, it has been a sheer joy travelling – if you have the opportunity take it – its well worth it.

Next blog: Heading to Smokey Bay SA – homeward bound.

Until next time keep well and happy!