Tamworth, Orange & Parkes – caravaning around Australia.

On the road again with a new thermostat in place the drive to Tamworth was stressful. I was dreading every hill, thinking the car would play up. Mr C was like a cat on a tin roof – trying to see the dash on the driver’s side. “What’s the temp doing” – me “fine”, “have you got cruise control on?” Me – “no“, eventually he settled down. Thankfully there were not too many hills on the way to Tamworth because we avoided them. The countryside was beautiful – as I was driving, I thought the hills looked like a patchwork quilt of different shades of green, yellow, beige and white for the homes against a backdrop of blue skies – it was awesome.

We were going to stay a night or two in Tamworth but decided against it as we had spent two extra nights in Armidale. We stopped for lunch at the Tamworth Visitors Centre, spoke to the lovely volunteers at the centre about the best way to get to Orange. There are many routes to take, I asked for a copy of the map, sadly they don’t sell them.

I met a group of women who were animal rescue volunteers, they had a baby Joey well not really a Joey, I can’t remember the name of the marsupial, but it looks like a Joey and a baby Wombat. We spent ages talking about how they feed the babies and take care of them, it was fascinating. Mr C was busy taking photos of the giant guitar.

The town of Tamworth was just like many of the towns we had been through, I was expecting something different – because it was Tamworth, known for its country singing. I guess the best time to be here would be for the country music festival, which is in January, just a bit too far away – next time.  Mr C & I took our obligatory photos with the big golden guitar, looked at the music museum and hall of fame. We filled up with fuel, I purchased a map of NSW it has much better detail of where we needed to go and continued to Orange, Mr C was the navigator which I was really pleased about – despite us trying to avoid hills we came across them.

At one point I pulled over into a rest bay as the car was struggling and just made it up one of the hills – we waited for about an hour for the car to cool and I then continued. Only to find a few more hills and the car continued to struggle, it was really stressful – at this point we were about 2kms from a 24hr rest bay – we arrived at The Black Stump just north of Coolah. I called it a day. It was a nice rest area with toilets and a few other people around – we had a light dinner and an early night.

I thought, ‘wow’ – there is a place called the Black Stump I’d heard the saying “beyond the black stump” meaning ‘the middle of nowhere” but I didn’t think there was an actual place – well this is it – there is a black stump – a tree that was burnt. The local Aboriginal Gamilaraay people called the area ‘Weetalibah-Wallangan’, meaning ‘the place where the fire went out and left a burnt stump’ We stayed the night. I googled The Black Stump for the purpose of my blog and found an interesting post giving some history – click the link to read further.

I thought it would be better if the car broke down then we would know what the problem was – the car was all day at the Ford dealer in Armidale. Now we have to book it in again at Orange. Frustrating!!!!!!

Morning coffee break was made in a town called Wellington. I could not get used to the idea there was a Wellington in NSW – the only Wellington I know is in New Zealand – it took some getting used to. I thought this was a unique little town, it was vibrant however, some empty shops, beautiful buildings, it was lovely. Called into the Information Centre again they were very helpful. Gave us a run down on the history of the town and its name – yes, the town was named after the Duke of Wellington (England). We picked up a couple of postcards, some freebee doggie high visibility kerchiefs about driver reviver and we had brunch at the “Four Fat Cats” – which happened to be an old infant school building – it was great.

Orange

I remember going to Orange for a weekend as a nursing student, oh so many years ago. It seems very different now – I loved the tree lined streets and the beautiful old houses with the Bull-nose verandas, it’s all so very pretty and Australian.

It seems coincidental that Mr C and I both spent time in our early adult life crossing paths in and around NSW – the early 70’s (however me being younger than him, I wasn’t married).

As we were driving through Orange, Mr C was grumpy and said, “I really don’t like Orange”. I asked him, “why not” – “I just don’t like it“, I sensed there was another reason, and pressed him further, and to my surprise, the following story was told (Mr C is ok with me sharing his story).

Mr C was 22yrs old and newly married when he lived in Canberra. He was driving between Bathurst and Orange with his mate Barry.  They were just visiting Orange. He was driving into Orange almost in the township. When Barry said, “I can hear music in the bush” Mr C looked behind him and in the rear vision mirror and said, “no it’s a police car trying to get past me”.  In saying that he pulled over. Then the police car pulled in behind him. Mr C got out of his car, the police man got out of the passenger seat and came to him. “You’re under arrest” Mr C said “Yer wot”. Then the police proceeded to tell him, you were driving too fast. The policeman asked what speed where you doing? – Mr C said “70mile an hour” – he said – the policeman said, “we were doing over 107 mile an hour and we couldn’t catch you pulling away from us”. “Nah mate you got that all wrong” – said Mr C, “oh no“, said the policeman and put him in the police car – Barry drove Mr C’s car to the police station. The police were joking in the car with Mr C – saying “what mileage do you get out of that beast (he had a 351 Fairmont) Allan Moffatt only gets 4 miles to the gallon out of his out of his GT Falcon” – Mr C laughed and said, “I don’t drive at silly speeds I get 18 miles to the gallon“. When he got to the Police Station, they took his belt and put him in a little box and charged him with speeding. Then Barry had to find $200 to bail him out. 

Mr C could not drive to Orange for his Court appearance, so he hired a mate of a mate with an aeroplane (normal little Cessna) to fly him to and from Orange – he got mate rates for the flight. The Court outcome was a $300 fine and 12 months suspension of licence in NSW. Everyone thought it was an excessive outcome because magistrate had no jurisdiction in ACT. Barry previously had got a DUI not his first and he paid $150 fine and 6 months suspension. – I think Mr C still feels hard done by and suffers from PTSD about Orange.

Despite Mr C’s dislike of Orange, we still enjoyed our time in Orange. Our car went into the Ford dealership for another look at why it doesn’t like hills. We were very impressed with the service we received, they found the problem – it was an Exhaust Gass Regulator (EGR), it needed to be replaced – this regulator when not working correctly will put the car in limp mode and this happened each time, we went up a high hill – thank goodness the issue is resolved. Three Ford dealerships have looked at the car, how hard can it be.

Parkes

It had been over 40 years since I had last visited Parks, it has grown exponentially. My dear friend Karen and I were nursing students and I went home with Karen to Parkes to meet her family, I recall it was a lovely time. To go back and see how much Parkes has changed and to see Karen’s mother again was delightful.  We also visited the Parkes Radio telescope – read the history here. I first saw it back in the 1970’s and it looked like a dish in the middle of no-where – now the trees have grown, it was also upgraded in the 1980’s and there is a café, where we had lunch and watched the birds.

Anyone know what the name of this bird is please? we have tried to find it but have not had any luck.

Bathurst

Mr C wanted to go to Mt Panorama and so we did, I was not that interested until I saw it and the track. You can actually drive the track at 60 Km/per/hour, our 4-wheel drive was not exactly the car to drive – I did the first loop, it was fun, I was surprised how tight the corners were and how steep the mountain was – it was fun.

Mr C did two laps, one to practice and the second for fun, he enjoyed it but wished he was in racing car not a 4-wheel drive. There was no chance of speeding, we passed a marked and unmarked police car on the track, so 60km it was – we both had fun.

Bathurst was also a nice town; I was impressed with the Court House it was rather grand compared to other towns we had seen. As usual there were many churches around the town – you can guarantee churches and pubs in all the towns.

We had a leisurely walk around the park and the town, then I had the best ice-cream in Bathurst – it was Annies’s ice-cream shop, it was just delish, I could’ve had two but thankfully restrained myself. It was time to drive back to Orange and plan the next part of our trip now that the car was fixed. We had stayed two extra nights in Orange due to the car repairs and now it was time to move on. I’m so ready to go home, but we still have much to see.

The car trouble has put a dampener on our holiday, it has been so stressful but now hopefully it will be clear sailing the rest of the trip. I’m looking forward to Xmas with our friends – thankfully all Xmas cards have been sent to family and friends.

Lesson – We have been on the road for nearly six months – there are bound to be some hiccups along the way when you are traveling towing a caravan. So just accept that this will happen and go with the flow.

Next blog will be Young – Queanbeyan then the countdown home will begin after Christmas.

Tenterfield – Armidale – Caravaning around Australia.

Tenterfield was Mr C’s choice, he loves the song by Peter Allen “The Tenterfield Saddler” so we googled where to find the Saddler’s House. After driving up and down the main street we couldn’t find it (only later to find we had driven past it several times, it was tucked away between two new buildings) we ended up at the Railway Station and discovered they had a market happening – great, we ambled around the market, asked a few locals where the house was, we were given directions. I discovered a Christmas Cake home baked stall and for the first time bought a Christmas Cake, at least it was home made. There were several Churches around the town – one I think was for sale, not sure how that works.

Tenterfield is a bustling little town, who all claim Peter Allen as their success story. What was great for Mr C was to experience the place of the song, Peter Allen did a great job. There were some beautiful old and new houses and the local people where all very friendly and helpful. It really is worth a visit. The only problem was museums were closed on the weekends.

Old man Barry, dressed and groomed impeccably with a light blue shirt, navy jumper shirt collar out, grey pants, grey socks and slip on brown leather shoes was sitting outside the shop to greet visitors. As he spoke to you, he used his wooden walking stick to extenuate important information. I guessed Barry was well into his eighties, he spoke with a quiet English accent, although he was Australian. He knew George Woolnough and was happy to share the family stories to anyone who would listen, he was a lovely man full of local knowledge. As I spoke to him, he told me, “I’ve come home to die, no better place than home”. I wasn’t sure how to respond to his comment, so I just smiled. Mr C bought a leather belt from the saddlery which is still functional. We had brunch at one of the many places to eat and then headed for Armidale.

Armidale

Mr C drove to Armidale, the journey was very picturesque, farming country. We encountered only two small episodes of the car struggling up hills, but the gears changed, and Betsy kept on going. We stopped at Glen Innes which has the standing stones and honouring Celtic people past and present. We did not stay long as we wanted to get to Armidale and get our car sorted out. I was surprised to see the names of the places, this is The New England area, there is Glen Innes, Stonehenge, Glencoe, Ben Lomond, I thought I was in the United Kingdom for a while there. Even street names were common English or from the deep South of America.

I was looking forward to arriving, I was meeting my dear midwifery friend, sadly she informed us that she has COVID. Arriving on Saturday meant that we had to wait until Monday before sorting our car.

Arrived at Highlander Van Park, we set up the caravan, doesn’t take us long now – we are real professionals now. Kettle on, cuppa and some home baked scones from the Tenterfield markets. Mr C noticed he had a sore neck – “honey, just check my neck” when I looked, I could see a body and some legs kicking about. “Oh, my goodness, you have a tick“, major surgery time.

Driving without having to pull the caravan was a real treat. Our first outing was to Wollomombi Falls and walk. The falls is a single fall into the Wollomombi River, it was good, but not as spectacular as the Wallaman Falls which we saw a few months ago. I enjoyed the walk whilst Mr C sat in the car – I was surprised to see the dog fence again, but then remembered in Qld they said it did go as far as NSW and parts of SA.

Gara Gorge was another beautiful spot of fresh water, it is also known as the Blue Hole. There was a great walk that I did, but as usual I am always worried about getting lost, as I have no sense of direction. The waters of the Gara feed into the Macleay system. There used to be a hydroelectric scheme at the Gara Gorge back in 1894 – you can see some of the remnants around the place. I did dip my feet into the water, but it was cold.

The tourist information centre conducts a free city bus tour, that we participated in with another couple. It was 2.5hours long and took us all around the city of Armidale – this included the New England University. Armidale does not have the population for a city but is named so because it has two cathedrals – St Peters Anglican and St Mary and Joseph Cathedrals. The city has so many churches, it is known as the city of churches and for the centre of education, teaching.

We also went for a short drive to Uralla and Gostwyck – our first stop was Gostwyck, it has the most beautiful private chapel. The chapel All Saints Anglican is on private land and therefore not used by the public, it is picture perfect. The beautiful trees are Elm trees, the seeds were brought out from England and planted at the same time the chapel was built in the early 1900s.

Uralla is a charming town, lots of old buildings, some nice coffee shops and boutique shops a couple of pubs and of course a couple of churches – seems the same in most of these towns. Uralla is also home to an infamous Captain Thunderbolt the last of the bushrangers. Uralla also hosts homes to fairies, they built fairy doors during COVID for the children of the town. We also missed the Uralla Fairy Festival, it would’ve been nice to see. It looks like a novel idea for the town.

Car – Ford Everest

The car went in for a service, it was an in-between (last service was Cairns) service to see what the problem was. It turns out that the thermostat needed to be replaced. Mr C asked about the transmission – however, this could only be checked once the new thermostat was in place. We waited a day for the part to arrive and then a day to fit. We had two quiet days, washing, cleaning etc just chilling days. We caught a taxi in for the Carols at St Peters one evening and the rest has been chilling and me catching up with my blogs and reading. Mr C picked the car up today with a new thermostat and no further information was forthcoming as to what the problem was. Mr C is not very happy with the level of service he received from the Ford dealership. We do not feel confident moving forward with the car, fingers crossed.

It was funny to see both Tenterfield and Armidale laying claim to Peter Allen, they both argued he was connected more to one town or the other. The bottom line is he was born in Tenterfield and raised in Armidale – however his roots were in Tenterfield. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.

We are ready packed up to leave in the morning heading to Tamworth. Here’s hoping there is nothing further wrong with the car. Mr C’s tick is gone and cleared up. We’ve enjoyed Armidale, sad I missed my friend due to COVID. Ready for the next part of our journey – Tamworth, Orange and Parkes.

See you at the next blog.

Lismore: Ballina, Bryon Bay & Kingscliff

Crossing the border to New South Wales (NSW) at Tweed Heads, was sheer delight. I have a real soft spot for NSW. It was home for me as a teenager, I started my nursing in Sydney and my eldest son was born at Wollongong Hospital.

Our route was along the Pacific Hwy and Dunoon Road, through Mullumbimby, Dunoon to Lismore. We choose Lismore because it was central to the places we wanted to go. The caravan park was The Roadrunner about 10 minutes from the city centre. Our spot was great, close to the amenities – however, I was not keen on the amenities block. We had a key to open the gate which led to the bathrooms, no one uses keys for amenities blocks these days – the building was old and dark. The park was cheap only $39 per night – guess sometimes this is a red flag however, for us it was great, quiet and clean. There were some local residents who have lived there since the last floods.

Ballina – Bundjalung Nation – Nyangbul people

I was last in Ballina 7 years ago and it had not changed much, although I did not see the Big Prawn, this was new for me – it seemed a little quiet and it was sad to see some empty shops. The Richmond River is the main river which enters the Pacific Ocean- we had lunch near the beach and the coffee was great – I watched as the honey eaters were playing up in the gum tree. I also went for a short walk on the beach; however, it was a bit windy – there were no shells.

Byron Bay – Bundjalung Country

Leaving Lismore along the Bangalow Road, past Bexhill, our next small town was Clunes. This town had a host of small churches (couldn’t get Me C to stop) and some charming crafty shops. We did stop at the General Store to buy some flowers and some delish banana bread. Our drive to Byron Bay was an amazing drive, winding roads, through some spectacular luscious green almost rainforest. I noticed showcase letterboxes such as brightly coloured dogs, cats, cows, microwaves, old fridges. People were very creative when it came to their letterboxes – it did make for an interesting drive. The driving time along this scenic route was about 50 mins, that accounts for getting lost. The journey back was much quicker along the main drag – maybe 40 mins.

The beaches at Bryon Bay were stunning and beautiful to swim in. Byron Bay seems an upmarket kind of place with lots of new age shops, alternative lifestyles, holistic wellness retreats (that did seem very expensive), many clothing stores and an array of eateries. We had dinner down a lane way that turned into an outdoor food market – I had fish and chips and Mr C had octopus salad, needless to say we shared.

Kingscliff is another beautiful part of the world – my friend Helen graciously showed us around her neck of the woods. What a wonderful place she lives in. The beach is pristine and where the river exits makes for a great place for the kids to swim. There is an array of eateries across from the beach. Together with boutique shops to appease any shopper, I steered clear as I didn’t want to be tempted to buy anything.

Both of us being midwives, she showed me the new Tweed Valley Hospital soon to be opened, it looked impressive from the outside. Here’s hoping it is everything they hope it would be.

There are so many beautiful beaches and quaint towns in this area: Cabarita Beach, Chinderah, Pottsville, Cudgen, Murwillumbah and Fingal. I can’t remember all the places we went only it was all very pretty. We saw some of the most expensive houses on millionaire’s row…. a little too big for my liking. We had a fabulous day.

The Tweed River is a mighty river, it’s so beautiful however, the danger of flooding is ever present – it’s amazing to see houses still being built near the river knowing that a flood is possible – I don’t think I would risk it and if I did, I would build on stilts. Lunch was at the Historic Tumbulgum Tavern, it was a perfect day. I think it’s always good to see a town by a local person, they know the place and its history – thanks Helen, very grateful.

Lismore – Bundjalung Nation

I didn’t know what to expect from Lismore, I just remember they had bad floods last year, most of the CBD was flooded. The Lismore visitors centre was closed still under repair from the floods, so this put us on a back foot. There was still evidence of a city recovering from the flood. Most of the time we were in Lismore it rained.

We kept seeing signs everywhere for Koala’s -“lookout Koala’s are here, drive safelyKoala’s cross here” – certainly not when we were around – did not see one Koala in the wild, despite all these signs. We went to the Friends of the Koala’s that is in the grounds of the University – this is where I purchased a friend for Fat Cat, Kez the Koala, it was a donation to the Koala hospital which looks after the sick Koala’s of the area.

We went to the local shopping centre for our usual supplies, Lismore had all the shops any large city has plus a Cathedral. There were many old beautiful buildings around the city.

One day on our return from Byron Bay, the havens opened up and the rain just came down – it was pouring, so heavy. At one stage I said to Mr C, “I can’t see the road in front of me, I am going to pull over” and so I did, we waited about half an hour and then I continued back to the caravan. It was scary. When we returned to the caravan, people at the site had put our chairs under the caravan and put our awning away for us – what a kind gesture.

It’s been an interesting time in Lismore, we had the most rain ever. camping /caravaning when it rains is horrible, not only are you confined to inside, but you have to close the vents – I felt claustrophobic. it was awful. I was disappointed not to see a koala, given all the signs around Lismore. We loved Byron Bay and Kingscliff. We are travelling well, no major arguments – all is well in our world. If it rains too much more, I’m coming home sooner.

Next stop is Nambucca Heads – see you at the next blog.